Skip to content
1887
  1. Home
  2. A-Z Publications
  3. Johnson Matthey Technology Review
  4. Volume 66, Issue 4
  5. Article
Volume 66, Issue 4
  • ISSN: 2056-5135
file format pdf download PDF

Abstract

Platinum has only been known to Europe since the 16th century. This was impure platinum, found as grains of native metal in alluvial deposits and comprising mainly platinum alloyed with the other five platinum group metals. They were exploited by pre-Colombian native populations of Ecuador and Colombia. In more recent times, the use of platinum in jewellery dates from the late 19th or early 20th centuries, often as a basis for diamond (and other precious gemstone) jewellery. Early jewellery alloys tended to be based on the existing industrial alloys and comparatively little development of specific jewellery alloys was carried out. Its acceptance as a hallmarkable jewellery metal came in 1975 when, with wider availability of the metal, platinum was promoted as a high-value jewellery metal. Platinum jewellery started to grow in popularity, mainly at 950 and 900 fineness qualities. Since that time there has been alloy development specifically for jewellery application and tailored to the requirements of different manufacturing technologies. This review examines the evolution of platinum jewellery alloys over the past century against the challenges presented in developing improved alloys for jewellery application. There has been a substantial increase in alloy development over the past 30 years, particularly focused on improved investment (lost wax) casting alloys as well as better mechanical properties.

© Johnson Matthey
Loading

Article metrics loading...

/content/journals/10.1595/205651322X16390711562364
2022-12-09
2024-12-26
Loading full text...

Full text loading...

/deliver/fulltext/jmtr/66/4/Corti_16a_Imp.html?itemId=/content/journals/10.1595/205651322X16390711562364&mimeType=html&fmt=ahah

References

  1. D. McDonald, L. B. Hunt, ‘The Beginning of the Story’, in “A History of Platinum and its Allied Metals”, Ch. 1, Johnson Matthey, London, UK, 1982, 9 pp [Google Scholar]
  2. E. A. Smith, ‘Platinum and its Industrial Alloys’, in “Working in Precious Metals”, 2nd Edn., Ch.15, NAG Press Ltd, London, UK, 1978, pp. 294–307 [Google Scholar]
  3. G. Raykhtsaum, Platinum Metals Rev., 2013, 57, (3), 202 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/57/3/202-213 [Google Scholar]
  4. J. S. Forbes, ‘Recent Years – 1914 to 1973’, in “Hallmark: A History of the London Assay Office”, Ch. 12, Unicorn Press, London, UK, 1999, pp. 283–304 [Google Scholar]
  5. J. S. Forbes, ‘The Hallmarking Act and After’, in “Hallmark: A History of the London Assay Office”, Ch. 13, Unicorn Press, London, UK, 1999, pp. 305–315 [Google Scholar]
  6. G. Ainsley, A. A. Bourne, R. W. E. Rushforth, Platinum Metals Rev., 1978, 22, (3), 78 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/22/3/78-87/ [Google Scholar]
  7. A. A. Bourne, A. G. Knapton, Johnson Matthey and Co Ltd,US Patent 4,165,983; 1979
  8. G. Normandeau, D. Euno, ‘Understanding Heat Treatable Platinum Alloys’, in “Proceedings of the Santa Fe Symposium”, ed. D. Schneller, Met-Chem Research Inc, Albuquerque, USA, 1999, pp. 73–103 [Google Scholar]
  9. G. Normandeau, D. Euno, ‘Understanding Heat Treatable Platinum Alloys’, Platinum Day Symposium,New York, USA, Vol. 5, Platinum Guild International, Newport Beach, USA, 1998, pp. 35–41 [Google Scholar]
  10. J. Huckle, ‘The Development of Platinum Alloys to Overcome Production Problems’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, 19th–22nd May, 1996, “Proceedings of the 10th Symposium”, ed. D. Schneller, Met-Chem Research Inc, Albuquerque, USA, 1996, pp. 301–325 [Google Scholar]
  11. J. Huckle, ‘Choosing Platinum Alloys to Maximize Production Efficiency’, Platinum Day Symposium, 11th March, 1995, “Platinum Manufacturing Process”, Vol. 1, New York, USA,Platinum Guild International, Newport Beach, USA, pp. 2–6 [Google Scholar]
  12. J. Maerz, ‘Platinum Alloy Applications for Jewelry’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, 16th–19th May, 1999, Albuquerque, USA, “Proceedings of the 13th Symposium”, ed. E. Bell, Met-Chem Research Inc, Albuquerque, USA, 1999, pp. 55– 71 [Google Scholar]
  13. S. Kretchmer, ‘Plat/S+TM, Innovative General Purpose Platinum Alloy Transforming Goldsmiths into Platinumsmiths’, Platinum Day Symposium, New York, USA, 8th March, 1998, “Platinum Manufacturing Process”, Vol. 4, Platinum Guild International, Newport Beach, California, USA, pp. 35–38 [Google Scholar]
  14. J. J. Maerz, ‘Platinum Alloys – Features & Benefits’, Platinum Guild International, USA, 2004 LINK https://www.ganoksin.com/article/platinum-alloys-features-benefits/ [Google Scholar]
  15. E. M. Savitskii, ‘Applications of Precious Metals and Alloys’, in “Handbook of Precious Metals”, ed. A. Prince, Hemisphere Publishing Corp, New York, USA, 1989, pp. 415–523 [Google Scholar]
  16. P. Battaini, ‘The Metallography of Platinum and Platinum Alloys’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA,16th–19th May, 2010, ed. E. Bell, Met-Chem Research Inc, Albuquerque, USA, 2010, pp. 27–49 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2010-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2010-the-metallography-of-platinum-and-platinum-alloys [Google Scholar]
  17. P. Battaini, Platinum Metals Rev., 2011, 55, (2), 74 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/55/2/74-83/ [Google Scholar]
  18. C. W. Corti, ‘Jewellery – Is it Fit for Purpose?: An Analysis Based on Examination of Customer Complaints’, Jewellery Technology Forum, Vicenza, Italy, January, 2018, 10 pp LINK https://jtf.it/images/pdf_archive/Cort_2018_eng.pdf [Google Scholar]
  19. C. W. Corti, ‘Jewelry – Is it Fit for Purpose? An Analysis Based on Customer Complaints’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, 2018, ed. E. Bell, Met-Chem Research Inc, pp. 163–175 [Google Scholar]
  20. S. Kretchmer, ‘Heat Treatable Platinum-Gallium-Palladium Alloys for Jewelry’, US Patent 6,562,158, 2003 [Google Scholar]
  21. S. Kretchmer, ‘Heat Treatment of a Platinum-Gallium Alloy for Jewelry’, US Patent 5,846,352; 1998 [Google Scholar]
  22. C. W. Corti, ‘Microalloying of High Carat Gold, Platinum and Silver’, Jewellery Technology Forum, Vicenza, Italy,17th–18th June, 2005 [Google Scholar]
  23. C. W. Corti, “Jewellery Alloys – Past, Present and Future”, The Goldsmiths’ Company Jewellery Materials Congress, London, UK, 8th–9th July, 2019, The Goldsmiths’ Company, London, UK, 24 pp LINK https://www.assayofficelondon.co.uk/media/2560/jewellery-alloys-past-present-future-c-corti.pdf [Google Scholar]
  24. R. W. E. Rushforth, Platinum Metals Rev., 1978, 22, (1), 2 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/22/1/2-12/ [Google Scholar]
  25. C. W. Corti, ‘Basic Metallurgy of the Precious Metals: Part 1’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology,Albuquerque, USA, May, 2017, pp. 25–61 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2017-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2017-basic-metallurgy-of-the-precious-metals [Google Scholar]
  26. J. C. Wright, ‘Laser-Welding Platinum Jewellery’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2001, pp. 455–468 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2001-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2001-laser-welding-platinum-jewelry [Google Scholar]
  27. J. C. Wright, Platinum Metals Rev., 2002, 46, (2) 66 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/46/2/66-72/ [Google Scholar]
  28. P. J. Horton, ‘Investment Powder Technology – The Present and the Future’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2001, pp. 213–239 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2001-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2001-investment-powder-technology-the-present-and-the-future [Google Scholar]
  29. J. Maerz, ‘Platinum Casting Tree Design’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, 2007, pp. 305–322 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2007-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2007-platinum-casting-tree-design [Google Scholar]
  30. R. Atkin, ‘Trouble Shooting Platinum Casting Defects and Difficulties’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 1996, ed. D. Schneller, Met-Chem Research Inc, pp. 327–337 [Google Scholar]
  31. G. Todd, D. Busby, D. Landry, M. Linscomb, G. Gilman, ‘A Review of Cast Platinum Jewelry Fabrication Methods’, Platinum Day Symposium, New York, USA, 8th March, 1998, “Platinum Manufacturing Process”, Vol. 4, Platinum Guild International, Newport Beach, USA, pp. 39– 47 [Google Scholar]
  32. P. Lester, S. Taylor, R. Süss, ‘The Effect of Different Investment Powders and Flask Temperatures on the Casting of Platinum Alloys’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2002, pp. 321– 334 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2002-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2002-the-effect-of-different-investment-powders-and-flask-temperatures-on-the-casting-of-pt-alloys [Google Scholar]
  33. U. Klotz, T. Drago, ‘The Role of Process Parameters in Platinum Casting’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, 2010, pp. 287–325 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2010-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2010-the-role-of-process-parameters-in-platinum-casting [Google Scholar]
  34. U. E. Klotz, Platinum Metals Rev., 2011, 55, (1), 20 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/55/1/20-27/ [Google Scholar]
  35. T. Fryé, J. Fischer-Buehner, ‘Platinum Alloys in the 21st Century: A Comparative Study’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, 2011, pp. 210–229 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2011-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2011-platinum-alloys-in-the-21st-century-a-comparative-study [Google Scholar]
  36. T. Fryé, J. Fischer-Buehner, Platinum Metals Rev., 2012, 56, (3), 155 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/56/3/155-161/ [Google Scholar]
  37. T. Fryé, J. Fischer-Buehner, ‘Platinum Jewellery Casting Alloys: A Comparative Study of Solidification Behaviours’, Jewellery Materials Congress, London, UK, 8th–9th July, 2019, The Goldsmiths’ Company, London, UK [Google Scholar]
  38. K. Weisner, ‘Heat Treatable Platinum for Jewelry’, Platinum Day Symposium, New York, USA, “Platinum Manufacturing Process”, Vol. 6, Platinum Guild International, Newport Beach, USA, 1999, pp. 25–30 [Google Scholar]
  39. T. Biggs, S. S. Taylor, E. van de Lingen, Platinum Metals Rev., 2005, 49, (1), 2 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/49/1/2-15/ [Google Scholar]
  40. C. W. Corti, ‘Metallurgy of Microalloyed 24 Carat Golds’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, 1999, pp. 379–402 [Google Scholar]
  41. C. W. Corti, Gold Bull., 1999, 32, (2), 39 LINK https://doi.org/10.1007/BF03214789 [Google Scholar]
  42. S. Grice, June 2021 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2013-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2013-the-effects-of-hot-isostatic-pressing-of-platinum-alloy-castings-on-mechanical-properties-and-microstructures
  43. T. Fryé, J. T. Strauss, J. Fischer-Bühner, U. E. Klotz, ‘The Effects of Hot Isostatic Pressing of Platinum Alloy Castings on Mechanical Properties and Microstructure’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2014, pp. 189–209 [Google Scholar]
  44. U. Klotz, T. Heiss, D. Tilberto, F. Held, ‘Platinum Investment Casting: Materials Properties, Casting Simulation and Optimum Process Parameters’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2015, pp. 143–168 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2014-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2014-platinum-investment-casting-material-properties-casting-simulation-and-optimum-process-parameters [Google Scholar]
  45. T. Heiss, U. E. Klotz, D. Tiberto, Johnson Matthey Technol. Rev., 2015, 59, (2), 95 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/59/2/95-108/ [Google Scholar]
  46. U. E. Klotz, T. Heiss, D. Tiberto, Johnson Matthey Technol. Rev., 2015, 59, (2), 129 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/59/2/129-138 [Google Scholar]
  47. T. Fryé, U. Klotz, ‘Mechanical Properties and Wear Resistance of Platinum Jewelry Casting Alloys: A Comparative Study’, The 31st Santa Fe Symposium, Albuquerque, USA, 21st–24th May, 2017, pp. 1–40 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2017-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2017-wear-resistance-of-platinum-jewelry-alloys-a-comparative-study [Google Scholar]
  48. U. Klotz, T. Fryé, Johnson Matthey Technol. Rev., 2019, 63, (2), 89 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/63/2/89-99/ [Google Scholar]
  49. R. Lanam, F. Pozarnik, T. Volpe, ‘Platinum Alloy Characteristics: A Comparison of Existing Platinum Casting Alloys with Pt-Cu-Co’, Platinum Day Symposium, Vol. 3, Platinum Guild International, USA, 1997, pp. 2–12 [Google Scholar]
  50. G. Normandeau, D. Ueno, ‘Platinum Alloy Design for the Investment Casting Process’, Platinum Day Symposium, New York, USA, March, 2000, “Platinum Manufacturing Process”, Vol. 8, Platinum Guild International, Newport Beach, USA, pp. 41–49 [Google Scholar]
  51. S. Grice, C. Cart, ‘PlatOro™: The Perfect Marriage’, Platinum Day Symposium, 2002, “Platinum Manufacturing Process”, Vol. 10, Platinum Guild International, Newport Beach, USA, pp. 4–7 [Google Scholar]
  52. J. J. Maerz, T. Laag, ‘Platinum Alloys, Features and Benefits: Comparing Six Platinum Alloys’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2016, pp. 335–353 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2016-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2016-platinum-alloys-features-benefits-and-new-developments [Google Scholar]
  53. T. Laag, H.-G. Schenzel, C Hafner GmbH, ‘Platinum Alloy, Useful for the Manufacture of Ornamental Object, Preferably Jewelry, Piece of Jewelry, Watch Cases and Objects of Precious Metal or Precious-Metal Layer, Comprises Platinum and Gold, and Indium’, German Patent Appl., 2013/102,012,007,299 [Google Scholar]
  54. R. Bertoncello, J. Fischer-Bühner, Legor Group SPA,, ‘Platinum-Cobalt Alloys with Improved Hardness’, Italian Patent Appl., 2011/120,110,750 [Google Scholar]
  55. T. Trosch, F. Lalire, S. Pommier, R. Völkl, U. Glatzel, Johnson Matthey Technol. Rev., 2018, 62, (4), 364 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/62/4/364-382/ [Google Scholar]
  56. U. E. Klotz, D. Tilberto, F. Held, ‘Additive Manufacturing of 18 Karat Yellow Gold Alloys’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2016, pp. 255–272 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2016-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2016-additive-manufacturing-of-18karat-yellow-gold-alloys-1 [Google Scholar]
  57. D. Zito, A. Carlotto, P. Sbornicchia, A. Molinari, I. Cristofolini, P. Unterberg, M. Fockele, ‘Optimization of SLM Technology Main Parameters in the Production of Gold and Platinum Jewellery’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2014, pp. 439–469 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2014-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2014-optimization-of-slm-technology-main-parameters-in-the-production-of-gold-and-platinum-jewelry [Google Scholar]
  58. D. Zito, V. Allodi, P. Sbornicchia, S Rappo, ‘Why Should We Direct 3D Print Jewelry? A Comparison Between Two Thoughts: Today and Tomorrow’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2017, pp. 515–556 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2017-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2017-why-should-we-direct-3d-print-jewelry-a-comparison-between-two-thoughts-today-and-tomorrow [Google Scholar]
  59. D. Zito, A. Carlotto, A. Loggi, P. Sbornicchia, D. Bruttomesso, S. Rappo, ‘Definition and Solidity of Gold and Platinum Jewlry Produced Using Selective Laser Melting (SLM™) Technology’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2015, pp. 455–491 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2015-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2015-definition-and-solidity-of-gold-and-platinum-jewelry-produced-using-selective-laser-melting-slm-technology [Google Scholar]
  60. D. Zito, ‘Potential and Innovation of Selective Laser Melting Technique in Platinum Jewelry Production’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2018, pp. 625–684 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2018-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2018-potential-and-innovation-of-the-selective-laser-melting-slm-technique-in-platinum-jewelry-production [Google Scholar]
  61. U. Klotz, F. König, ‘Additive Manufacturing of Platinum Alloys – Practical Aspects During LPBF of Jewellery Items’, Jewellery Technology Forum, Vicenza, Italy, 20th March, 2022 [Google Scholar]
  62. T. Heike, G. Steiner, ‘Platinum Alloy for Jewelry’, European Patent 2,260,116; 2014 [Google Scholar]
  63. E. Leoni, G. Kissling, D. Vincent, S. Lauper, A. Duach, G. Villard, SA Omega, ‘Platinum Alloy’European Patent 3,502,286; 2019 [Google Scholar]
  64. B. J. Williams, ‘Are Lower Cost Platinum Alloys Feasible?’, Platinum Day Symposium, Vol. 9, Platinum Guild International, New York, USA, 2001, pp. 42–45 [Google Scholar]
  65. G. Raykhtsaum, ‘Platinum Alloys’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2012, 489–503 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2012-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2012-platinum-alloys [Google Scholar]
  66. N. Swann, ‘10 Platinum Days – What Has Changed?’, Platinum Day Symposium, Vol. 10, Platinum Guild International, New York, USA, 2002, pp. 22–27 [Google Scholar]
  67. B. Lohwongwatana, J. Schroers, W. L. Johnson, ‘Liquidmetal – Hard 18k and .850 Pt Alloys that can be Processed like Plastics or Blown like Glass’, The Santa Fe Symposium on Jewelry Manufacturing Technology, Albuquerque, USA, May, 2007, pp. 289–303 LINK https://www.santafesymposium.org/2007-santa-fe-symposium-papers/2007-liquid-metal-hard-18k-and-850pt-alloys-that-can-be-processed-like-plasticsor-blown-like-glass [Google Scholar]
  68. O. S. Houghton, A. L. Greer, Johnson Matthey Technol. Rev., 2021, 65, (4), 506 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/65/4/506-518/ [Google Scholar]
  69. O. S. Houghton, A. L. Greer, Johnson Matthey Technol. Rev., 2021, 65, (4), 519 LINK https://technology.matthey.com/article/65/4/519-534/ [Google Scholar]
/content/journals/10.1595/205651322X16390711562364
Loading
The Evolution of Platinum Jewellery Alloys: From the 1920s to the 2020s
Johnson Matthey Technology Review 66, 418 (2022); https://doi.org/10.1595/205651322X16390711562364
/content/journals/10.1595/205651322X16390711562364
/content/journals/10.1595/205651322X16390711562364
Loading

Data & Media loading...

  • Article Type: Research Article

Most Cited Most Cited RSS feed

This is a required field
Please enter a valid email address
Approval was a Success
Invalid data
An Error Occurred
Approval was partially successful, following selected items could not be processed due to error
Please enter a valid_number test